17km. Relatively easy walk today. Cool and rainy. Had planned to walk to Laredo, which the apps said would be 30 km. But 30 turned into 37, and with 820 m of ascents and descents, that sounded risky. Particularly as there is a 250 m hill to cross just at the end.
Left at about 10:00 this morning. Walked along the coast for much of the way, either up on top the cliffs or down close to the water. Although the walking felt comfortable and I wasn’t slow, it took me ages to get anywhere because I kept stopping for photos. This scenery really is unbelievable. If my Origo Education writer or editor friends are reading this, please send synonyms for beautiful and gorgeous ASAP before I bore everyone to death with my descriptions!
Stopped at Islares to have lunch and scope out where I might sleep tonight, if not Laredo. My preference was Liendo. In addition to the ongoing rolling hills, there are two ~250 m hills to ascend and descend between here and Laredo. Liendo would put me over one of them. But when I started looking at accommodations, there were only two fully booked hotels and one public albergue, which a pilgrim had reported as closed as of April 2024 in the Wise Pilgrim app. I have learned not to trust comments or availability on booking.com or hotels.com, but rather always call myself to check when in need. So I called the albergue and sure enough, they are open tonight. I then asked how easy it has been recently to get beds. Are they likely to be available? She said yes, it’s easy. I was reassured for all of 5 seconds before she added, ‘As long as you get here soon after we open. If you wait until later, there is sometimes a problem.’ Well as you know, I am very likely to be the ‘get there later’ gal, so I started looking in Rioseco. The hotels were all listed as sold out on Booking.com, but I was easily able to book a room at the Valle de Guriezo Inn through WhatsApp.
Arrived at Rioseco before 4. It’s a lovey mountain town. There is a field of sheep adjacent to the hotel. Went to the supermarket and got some fruit, yoghurt, and bread for dinner. Then checked in, changed shoes, and went sightseeing. It was a quick tour of the town. Walked up to the Church of San Andres, a 12th century Romanesque church, which stands deep in the woods and ferns at the top of a hill in town. It was hard to get a photo as the forest has grown in so close.
Highlights/observations/comments from the day:
I forgot to mention yesterday that as I walked out of Pobeña, I was also walking out of the Basque Country and into Cantabria. The four autonomous communities that the Northern Camino crosses are shown in a screenshot below from the Wise Pilgrim app.
The locals have been increasingly supportive since Gernika. They stop to talk to me, wish me buen camino as they pass, offer advice, or whistle and point if they see me going the wrong way. People have been helpful throughout, it just feels as though the route is becoming increasingly Camino focused. It is very motivating.
The walking experience has been very different since Gernika. I cross paths with very few pilgrims, and those I do see tend to keep more to themselves.
Having said that, I did meet a lovely French couple in Islares, Benedictine and Gerard. I hope to run into them again. And….I ran into Werner!! Of the Javi, Werner, and Terri soaking-wet-picnic-in-the-pouring-rain day. Just when I was thinking I was enjoying my introvert recovery days, I saw him walking toward me. He’s a kind man, but a man of generally serious facial expressions. But when he saw me, he got a huge smile on his face (as did I on mine) and he came straight over to give me a giant hug! It was an incredible feeling. Like seeing family. Unfortunately, he was going the other direction. He’s got a very big blister (maybe? He didn’t know the English word and doesn’t speak Spanish) on his foot and is having hip trouble, so he was walking to the nearest town with a sporting goods store to buy new shoes. Another big hug and we parted ways. He’s a good walker - hopefully I’ll see him again.
Regarding solitude: I am very glad I am walking this alone for two reasons. 1) I am a friendly introvert. I need space and time to recover between social interactions. 2) I can walk at any speed, stop at any location, eat any food I want. I don’t need to worry about pleasing anyone, what anyone wants or needs, or what anyone will think. It is exactly what I need. To be clear, no one asks those things from me or makes demands. But as mothers, daughters, partners, family, friends, and colleagues, many of us become conditioned to offer. I love being there for the people I care about. But this is also very rewarding and nourishing.
Regarding ‘doing it right’: Some pilgrims believe it’s not the pilgrim experience if you don’t stay in albergues every night. I’ll just say this: I am a perimenopausal woman who is not of the sort who go through it with no problems. I have trouble sleeping under the best conditions, and I sometimes have to work hard to feel calm and clear-headed. When private rooms will provide me the solitude and rest I need, then I go ahead and fill my cup. At the end of the day, I am walking 835 km with dedication and spirit (and a backpack). That is enough. If you decide to walk a Camino, do it your way.
Photos from the day:
Looks delightful, splendid and largely pulchritudinous!
I'll say it, too- BEAUTIFUL!❤