16 km. Thought it was going to be 12, but these Camino guides can be tricky. I think I added kms in my effort to get to the Albergue la Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto, which is outside of Güemes, so a longer route. The walking was hilly and the weather was cool and sunny. I walked mostly on back roads between towns, all inland today.
Woke up still feeling sore. Had a slow morning. Did lots of stretches and took a hot shower. Ate breakfast (Spanish omelette and coffee) and considered staying one more night, but when I inquired they were sold out so that decision was made for me. It’s a good thing, too. I’m feeling better after a day of careful walking.
I left at around noon and took my time, stopping every hour to take off my backpack and stretch my back, hips, and leg. I walked slowly and steadily and made it here by 5, with two food stops. No menu del día for me today, because I am staying at a donativo (donations) pilgrim hostel that includes dinner and breakfast. The guidebooks suggest a 20 euro donation when dinner is included, so that’s what I’ll pay.
According to guidebooks, this is an albergue experience not to be missed. It sits on a hill at the edge of a forest and overlooks a valley. (Father?) Ernesto runs the albergue with a group of volunteers. It has 65 beds, sleeps 100 with floor space, and apparently turns no one away. I’ve been here an hour now. I was greeted with cookies and water, was shown to my ‘cabin’ (11 bunks, sharing with 4 men) and had a shower. Now I’m sitting in the sun writing this while I wait for dinner at 7:30.
This is already quite the experience. Ernesto has dedicated his life to the pilgrims walking the Camino. The place is sprawling, beds are comfortable, there is a pilgrim library, and there are motivational messages on all the walls. Apparently, there is a ‘hall’ upstairs where we all meet at 7:30 pm to listen to Ernesto speak about his philosophies of life, then we move to the dining area and dinner is served. Pilgrims report this talk lasts 45 minutes to an hour. I plan to have a few almonds before I head over! The whole experience reminds me of summer camp. I will add an update after dinner.
One other highlight of the day: I stopped in Castillo Siete Villas for a stretch and a snack. I was sitting in a small cafe, when a baby of about 1, new to walking, toddled over to me and reached up. He asked, so of course I picked him up and sat him in my lap. He sat there quite contentedly for about ten minutes, just playing and chatting with me. His mother was there - she just laughed. At one point he leaned in to rest on me. It was delicious. That age is awesome.
Update, 10 pm: Anna is here! I was very happy to see her. We listened to Ernesto talk for an hour (long, that’s all I’ll say about that…) and then had a lovely, simple, hearty meal of soup, risotto, and yoghurt. There are 33 pilgrims here tonight from 13 countries. It’s been a great experience.
Photos from the day:
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