24 km. Lots of climbing today. Only about 650m total, but instead of one or two big ascents, there were many smaller hills, each with steepish climbs. Sunny in the morning, dark clouds for a while, then rain at the end about 2 km before my destination. This was actually fine by me, as Muros de Nalón sits high up on a hill, and I appreciated the cooling effect of the rain during the climb.
I walked alone the first and last thirds of the walk, and in the middle joined Josef, Anna, and Silvia from Austria. They spoke limited English, so much of the time I was a ‘silent partner’ in the group. But they were very welcoming and we all made an effort to have a brief chat every now and then.
It was mostly inland through mountain towns and countryside. Body mostly intact. An easy-going day, not much to report.
Some highlights/observations/comments:
Although the real rain did not come until the end, there was a dusting of drizzle earlier on. But it was no match against the power of four pilgrims laboriously stopping, covering packs, and putting on rain jackets. It stopped almost before we were done. We then took the time to remove it all, and the rain just backed off. It knew that we were prepared to play this game all day and got bored.
Stinging nettles sting. A lot. I learned this after sticking my hand once again into them. That’s right, this was not the first time, but the fourth. The first two times were in the first week, on the same day. I was not familiar with stinging nettles and could not figure out why my knuckles were on fire. I was instructed then in the ways of nettles. Apparently, I promptly forgot they existed, because I did it again a week later. I was careful for several days after that, but I guess I have had a lot on my mind tending to my feet (ha), because I did it again today. Each time it is during a nature wee. No, my bottom has not been stung. (I know you were wondering). It is always my hands because I have a knack for dropping my poles in them when I take off my pack.
We were on quiet country roads a lot today, but there was a stretch in the middle on dirt roads and paths, and we encountered a lot of mud. As I was preparing for this trip, I read a comment online from a woman who hiked the Northern Camino in April last year that said that there are days on end where you walk through a ‘sea of mud’. It hasn’t been quite that bad this year, but there certainly is a fair bit of mud some days. I have added a series of mud photos (taken on various days) for your enjoyment.
There weren’t places to stop and eat lunch today, so I only snacked on various things in my pack after second breakfast. These included: one banana, three fourths of an energy bar, and some almonds. When I arrived at my hotel at about 4:15 pm, I was relieved to find a restaurant, as the nearest places to eat on the map were almost a kilometer away. It doesn’t start serving until 7:30, though, so now I’ve just eaten the rest of what’s in my pack to stave off ‘hanger’: an orange, more almonds, and a few chocolate covered walnuts. 1 1/2 more hours to wait…
Something I should have done much sooner: If, prior to reading this blog, you were unfamiliar with the Camino del Santiago and the various routes, you can get some good information here. I like this website (Stingy Nomads) because the couple has walked several routes and give a good pilgrim perspective. Also, they are not trying to sell you a tour package, which makes for nicer reading.
Photos from the day:
Ah, stinging nettles. They are a joy!