22 km. Great day today! My hip and legs felt fine and strong. I think all of you out there are the angels I can credit for that. I’ve had some positive vibes sent my way. Thank you.
Steep 1+ hour climb out of Gernika to start the day, then it was a relatively easier the rest of the way. Still climbing, but moderate with more undulations. The temp was unseasonably warm, 27C/84F, and of course I left late at 11 (I can see my mom rolling her eyes!), so that was rough at times. But thankfully, there was periodic shade for relief.
Remember I was hoping to find pilgrims to share the accommodation in Lezama with? Well the Camino provides. I met Jeff (San Francisco) and Sven (Germany) at breakfast and they were happy to take the beds! Having that resolved was a great start and freed me to relax for the walk ahead. It was a good thing, too, because I saw very few pilgrims today. I walked with Daria (Russia) for about 20 minutes and Dave and Sue (North Carolina) for about 15. It was a solitary trek.
Walking alone is soul enriching. It gives you the time and space for deep thoughts. Here are some of my reflections:
On and off throughout the day I compulsively thought and chanted, in a whisper, pah, pah, pah, pah … Like a drumbeat marking my steps. Sometimes I got jaunty and chanted, p-pah, p-pah, p-pah… That’s it. I can’t explain it. Let’s say I reached a deep meditative state, clear of all thoughts. That makes me feel more special and less ‘special’, haha.
Around mid-day I spent time thinking, ‘I hope Larrabetzu has a restaurant with menu del dia. I love menu del dia so much. I wonder what they’ll have? I hope there’s pollo. I love that I’m burning so many calories that I can eat dessert at every meal.’
On a serious note, I had many moments of gratitude for the physical health of my body. Being able to walk is not something we should take for granted.
Also on a serious note, I reflected on how people often have no idea of the power of their kindness. During my lunch break (menu del dia!), I was the only pilgrim and there was one other local eating at the next table, an older man. He struck up a conversation with me and we had a great chat. Then the waitress jumped in and told me my castellano was good. ‘Better than his!’, she joked. This was great for two reasons. 1) the Basque locals are not always interested in talking, and 2) I lived in Colombia so many years ago (1988) that I arrived in Spain very rusty and not confident at all. I received compliments from two people today and they were a much-needed boost. Everyone was so welcoming and wished me a happy trip. Their kindness made my day. I left with a smile and feel that they probably have no idea what that experience did for me. Hence the reflection.
After that meal, I only had a quick 4 km into Lezama, that I, in my own special way, turned into 6 km. After walking about 1 km out of town, with a spring in my step and a smile on my face, I realized that I’d forgotten to pay for lunch! So back I went. I paid, we had a laugh, then I set out again.
I met Jeff and Sven at the apartment. We brought groceries in and had a fantastic evening together, sharing Camino and life experiences. New friends. We’re all in this together on this road.
Here are some photos of the day:
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