It’s 10:15 and I have just eaten dinner (pintxos). Oh, Spain…
26 km, cool weather, and no rain. We walked through mountains today, no sea in sight. Once again, I ended the day late at 8 pm. Today the late arrival was because my hip began to bother me again from midday onwards. If it weren’t for Javi and Clara (France), and the fact that there were no beds available anywhere before Gernika, I never would have made it. I was ready to stop. But here I am! Alive and (mostly) well.
I left the hostel at about 9:15 this morning, feeling great. At about 11 am Javi caught up to me and we walked together for about an hour, then he walked ahead. At about 1 pm, I received a message from him saying that he’d found a great lunch place in Olabe and he’d wait for me there. I got there at about 1:30, just as he was finishing, and he sat with me while I ate my lunch, an awesome homestyle meal of salad, lentil and beef soup, fish and fries, and torta de queso (similar to cheesecake). Then just as I was finishing, Clara showed up and we invited her to join us. We ended up sitting for two hours.
As great as lunch was, it was also the point at which I decided I needed to stop for the day, only to discover it wasn’t possible. The waitress suggested I take a bus, but I was not happy about that idea. Javi, being Javi, pointed out we have lots of daylight so let’s just go slowly. He walked with me and distracted me with conversation all the way to Gernika. When we arrived, he looked at me and told me he was so proud of me. He has been amazing. Thankfully, I was able to pay him back. He and Clara had been calling all through lunch but couldn’t find a hostel bed anywhere in Gernika. I got on hotels.com and was able to get them a free hotel room with my points. (All those trips to the US!)
As for stopping, slowing down, or not carrying my pack, I have complicated feelings. My tendency is to keep going and do it ‘right’. But no fewer than three people today have pointed out that perhaps the Camino is suggesting I slow down, and be open to taking care of myself. (Sound familiar, Mark?) So, I have decided to take a rest day here in Gernika. After that, my next stage was going to be 32 km to Bilbao, which many people do in two days. I really want to stick to this plan, but as it is quite mountainous again, I will send my bag forward that day. The post office and other private operations perform this service for pilgrims for just a few euro.
The day ended well. I made it, I have a plan, and…we ran into so many friends once we arrived in Gernika! We ran into four people who were at the albergue last night, and I saw and caught up with Greg and Jo, Cristian and Sonja, and Lorenzo and Dinae. This Camino experience has been so special. Furthermore, Jo is also sending her backpack forward due to hip troubles, Clara’s feet are hurting her so she’ll only go 10 km tomorrow, and Javi has decided to send his bag tomorrow. It’s as though everyone is reassuring me. 💙
Here are some photos from the day:
Terri, it's Bev! Guess I need to sign up to show my identity! Send you lots of love!!